Fire Tiger Popper

Fly: Bob Petti, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann

Hook: Kinked shank popper hook
Thread: Chartreuse
Head/Body: Hard foam painted green over chartreuse over hot orange
Legs: Chartreuse round rubber
Tail: Chartreuse hackle, flared, and a few strands of chartreuse krystal flash
Skirt: Chartreuse hackle

Gotta give Gene Trump credit for showing us how to spray paint these popper bodies. After reading his "Fly Tyer" article, coming up with this pattern was a snap. The "Fire Tiger" combination of colors, green over chartreuse over hot orange, is timeless and always effective for bass and panfish.

Tying instructions:

  1. Wrap a foundation layer of thread over the kinked portion of the hook, to help create a bond between the popper body and the hook. Make sure this is a snug fit, so the body won't slip off the hook while the epoxy is drying.

  2. Epoxy the body to the hook. I use a needle or a bodkin to fill the gap in the body with epoxy as well as smearing some epoxy on the hook itself. After sliding the body on the hook, I flip it upside down so the "slot" in the body is up. I dribble some leftover epoxy in the slot so that it is slightly raised above the rest of the body.

  3. Once the epoxy has hardended, I sand the slat area flush with the body as well as sanding smooth any drips or blobs that I may have left behind.

  4. I paint the body with Testor's model enamel spray paints. I dab the eyes on using sharpened dowel rods. I then coat the whole body with a couple coats of a high gloss polyurethane spray.

  5. Tie in a few strands of krystal flash and a couple pair of flared hackles for the tail.

  6. Tie in a hackle and wrap a skirt between the tail and the body.

  7. Clean out the hook eye if required.

Note: If I'm going to add rubber legs to the body, I heat a bodkin over a flame and melt holes into the body. After the body has been painted and sealed, I sometimes need to clean out the holes with the bodkin again. After the fly is tied, I make an "angle cut" in the end of a piece of round rubber leg material, put a drop of zap-a-gap in the hole, and stick the tapered end of the rubber into the hole. The zap-a-gap will hold the rubber in place quite securely. After all the rubber is installed, I trim them to length.

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© 1999 Hans Weilenmann
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