Seducer
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Fly: Frank Thompson, Originator: Randall Kaufmann, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann
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| Hook: |
Tiemco, TMC 200R, 3x long, York bend, #18 |
| Thread: |
Uni-thread, rusty brown, 8/0 |
| Tail: |
Moose hair, tied short |
| Rib: |
Fine gold wire |
| Abdomen: |
Natural Aust. Opossum fur dubbing |
| Body hackle: |
Metz dun rooster, #20 |
| Underwing: |
Large Pearl tinsel |
| Overwing: |
Rooster hackle, black or very dark dun |
| Hackle: |
Grizzly rooster hackle |
| Thorax: |
Natural Aust. Opossum for dubbing |
Tying instructions:
- Start by tying the thread in about halfway of the hook shank. Take about six Moose hairs and tie in a short tail a little longer than the gap of the hook.
- Tie in about a two or three-inch piece of fine gold wire, right at the bend and let it hang out over the tail.
- Next, dub a small amount of natural Aust. Opossum fur onto thread and rap forward from the bend to halfway up the hook shank.
- Tie in a dun hackle by its stem, after removing the webby part, dull side facing the bend, at the midpoint of hook shank. This hackle should be one size smaller than normal for this size fly. Palmer this hackle back to the bend of the hook in three or four turns.
- While the hackle is being held in place with your hackle pliers still attached to the hackle, reverse wind the gold wire forward through the palmered dun hackle, to the midpoint of the hook shank. Tie off the wire with a couple turns of thread. Clip off any access hackle and gold wire. Cut a V into the top of the hackle.
- Cut a piece of large pearl tinsel about one and one-half inches long. Fold tinsel in half. Hold thread straight up over hook shank and place folded tinsel over the thread. Slide the tinsel down the thread next to the hook shank and hold over shank with the loose ends laying flat over the tail. Tie down tinsel at the midpoint of shank with two or three turns of thread. Cut the tinsel just short of the tip of the tails.
- Take a hackle from a black or very dark dun rooster neck (usually the larger hackles on the neck are the least used, and will work nicely for the wing). About ¾” down from the tip of the hackle, stroke the barbules backwards or reverse the way they normally lay. Once the barbules are reversed, hold them in place with a thumb and index finger with about ½” of the reversed barbs and stem exposed. Put a little fleximent on the under or dull side of the hackle and hold for a few seconds until the glue sets. After the hackle has dried, cut off the ¾” of tip from hackle. The reversed glue tip should be almost the same length as tip of tail and on top of the underwing with the hackle laying flat on top of the shank. Tie down with 2 or 3 wraps of thread at the same place you tie down the underwing. Dull side of hackle should be next to the underwing.
- Now, you need a grizzly hackle with barbules 1 ½ to 2 times the length of the gap at the hook. Take the webby part of the hackle off and discard. Tie the hackle stem in (just in front of the wing ti-in point) with the dull side facing the bend.
- Use a very small amount of olive-brown dubbing and apply to the thread. Wrap the dubbing from the point where the wing is tied in forward to just behind the eye of the hook (leave room between the dubbing and the eye for the head of the fly).
- Wind the grizzly hackle in 2 or 3 turns forward to the eye. Tie off the hackle with 2 or 3 turns of thread and clip off any extra hackle. Make a head with tying thread just behind the eye and whip finish and apply a little head cement.
Note: I know this fly takes some time to tie the first couple of times it’s tied, but I really think this might be a fly to have in your fly box. You can tie it in different sizes from #8 to #20 and different colors. The fly can imitate Caddis, Stonefly, Hopper, Cricket, etc.
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