A fairly standard stillwater buzzer pattern. These work best when they are tied as slim as possible. I hate working with epoxy, and superglue (the other coating type British tiers usually use for coating buzzer patterns) doesn't work for me since it
always whites out -- my superglue never gives me a clear, transparent coat
-- so I use standard cement (nail varnish) for my 'poxy buzzers.
Tying instructions:
- This is an
easy tie, starting with the tail/breathers. Tie in a narrow strand of
white antron, just behind the eye, and tie it down all the way to where
the body ends (in the hook bend) in touching turns.
- Tie in the rib, and bring the thread back forward, again in touching turns. You now have a double thread layer abdomen. Make the abdomen about 3/4 of the shank
length.
- Rib the abdomen with the copper wire. I find that most tying wire is too heavy for these patterns. The only place I can find really narrow wire is on the spools of computer disk drive motors, or other miniature electric motors.Make a nice, somewhat bulbous thorax with the copper wire and tie off. Cover the wire thorax thoroughly with tying thread.
- Bring the thread to the eye, and tie in a short length of raffene, split in half and
sort of wrapped lenghtwise so that its width is about 1.-1.5 mm. Tie it in
lying parallel to the shank, dividing the raffene in two equal halves, on
the underside of the hook, just behind the eye, with two wraps. Then twist
it so that it lies perpendicular to the hook shank and secure with 2-3
cross-wraps.
- Bring the thread back to where the abodomen meets the thorax, and bring first the near half of the raffene back and up, secure with one wrap, then the far half of the raffene back and up, secure both halves with two additional wraps. Cut both halves very short, cover their butts with thread and whip finish in situ.
- Clip thread and coat the whole fly, excluding the tails and breathers, with two coats of nail varnish.
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